Create Your Journey

Explorers and Expeditionist’s Over The Centuries

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What to remember when designing for cold temperatures:

These clothes are made for survival that are designed to fit into a layered clothing scheme. They have to be waterproof and accommodate to variations of temperature. Explorers have to be aware of wearing tight clothing, part of being insulated is a system of letting the natural warm air of your body counteract the cold air you encounter. If your clothes are too tight, and don’t allow for insulation, you can get cold easily. Also, remember that cotton isn’t really an insulator. So, it is recommended to wear more modern arctic designed clothing.

Expedition Clothes- modern day

Parka- You should look for a lightweight, wind and weather-resistant shell with insulation. Bright colors are more visible, and safer in polar environments. Traditionally, Polar travelers wear red. Contrasting with the early Burberry expedition clothing. Warm trousers. Ski pants are typically worn, however any sturdy trousers that can be layered between your long underwear and rain over-trousers are appropriate. Waterproof trousers- the most essential part of the outfit are a pair of water-resistant made of coated nylon are essential. These are worn like shell for your legs. Look for Gore-Tex and other synthetic fabrics that are waterproof and breathable. These materials keep out wind and water without trapping excess heat. Due to environmental reasons, avoid trousers with velcro and anything with mesh or netting. Thermal underwear. You should select medium to thick thermal underwear; long sleeve thermal top, trousers and socks. Most people prefer a lightweight version — but this depends on your personal thermostat. Polypropylene fibres are warmer when damp or wet, than silk or wool, although the CSIRO has recently developed a fine wool product called Sportwool. Sweaters or polar fleece jacket. Wool sweaters or a polar fleece jacket of medium weight are recommended. Dress in comfortable, loose layers. It is far better to wear layers of relatively light, loose clothing than one thick, heavy item. Between each layer there is insular air that, when heated by your body, acts as a natural insulator. It will also allow you to keep from overheating. Body heat is most likely to be lost from hands and feet. Keep them warm and dry.

The Puffer- Revived

Puffers have been around since the 1930s, introduced to the market after Eddie Bauer nearly died of exposure when his wool sweater froze from rain on a fishing trip; Bauer came up with a waist-length quilted puffer coat with a knitted collar. But it was designer Norma Kamali in the early ’70s that came up with the ankle-length coat we know and love today, after a traumatic camping trip in New York she realised how brilliant it would be to have a sleeping bag for a coat, and the puffer was born.

Former protective gear is now being seen in both high end and high street fashion today. With extremely similar silhouettes and concepts such as layering, trench coats and puffer jackets all being worn in the 21st century and not only by the explorers.

The puffer silhouette (one that I originally associate with explorers and adventurers) has always been a practical choice for those who hike, visit or live in countries of a colder climate. However in 2016 the puffer made an appearance on the runway in the form of a bright red coat designed by Demna Gvsalia’s, in her first collection for Balenciaga.

“A puffer’s shape and look are powerful, but also plain and almost spartan – and there’s power in riding that line,” says Andrew Luecke, a fashion historian and the co-author of Cool: Style, Sound and Subversion, a history of youth subcultures. Over the years what was once the clothing for explorers, hikers and skiers has appeared on our runways, in shows from Chanel to Versace that have become iconic, and staples in women’s and men’s wardrobes that are revived every winter.

In 2019 two of the worlds most desired items were puffer jackets, one from the American brand Northface and the other from Italian designer Moncler, that became increasingly popular due to urban hiking. To take a look at the Puffers throughout history follow the link to the Vogue website below...

https://www.vogue.com/article/puffer-coat-runway-history

The first evening Puffer made in 1937 by Charles James, better known for his draped gowns.

Another variation of Puffer, designed by Maison Margeila in 1999, a coat made with multi purpose as the sleeves were detachable, turning the jacket into a duvet.

Byblos A/W19/20 the collection was based on the Arctic Circle and global warming. Designer Manuel Facchini only used recycled materials to create the garments.

Ski Wear- The Modern Day Explorer

Skiing began as a mode of survival, with the first man to ever ski beginning over twenty two thousand years ago. Archaeologists have been able to date back evidence of skiing all the way back to 6000 BC in northern Russia. Skis and snowshoes were first invented to cross wetlands and marshes in the winter when they froze over. They enabled man to travel during the winter and hunt reindeer and elk across the frozen tundra. Skis were widely utilized in Central Asia and Europe, while snowshoes were common in the New World. A new era of skiing was created by the Norweigan army closely followed by civillians beginning to take place in Nordic and Alpine Skiing later followed by the first winter Olympics in France 1924. Between the 50s and 60s skiing became much more accessible to people, with the evolution of the metal ski and the plastic boot replacing the disasterous leather boot. Skiing has been popular for thousands of years now, but not only does the skiing itself adapt but so does the fashion, and it does so rapidly in the 21st century.

The Future of Ski Fashion

Jonathan Chippindale, CEO of Holition (a digital retail agency that specialise in humanising technology in the fashion and beauty industries), had this to say about the future of ski wear:‘’When I look at the future generations, they’re not just talking about sustainability ‐ they’re already doing it. I can’t see any Gen Z coming through who would buy non‐sustainable ski products.’’ ‘’I do a lot of work with Central Saint Martins’ Material Futures Programme, where students take on a future‐facing design approach. They think strategically and look at the full spectrum of materiality in working out the requirements of the textiles of the future. These young designers look at design from a very human perspective and create fashion that is designed for the environment.’’

2020 trends are being dominated by cruelty free clothing, as companies begin to reduce the use of synthetic clothing and are using sustainable materials instead. 75% of consumers wanted to make the conscious effort to purchase and wear eco-friendly clothing so designers began constructing skiwear made out of soybean and hemp.

Key sustainable ski essentials will be plant-based, swapping out ski wear that uses real down, while hat and gloves will be made from 100 percent global organic textile standard and certified organic wool, and everyone will be wearing vegan non-leather boa boots, designed for the après ski scene meaning fashion crazes will not be compromised. Down is used as a thermal insulator, it is popular due to its light wear and small size, down is taken from feathers of aquatic birds and is used in most ski jackets.

Stone island real down jacket

One of the best eco-friendly skiwear brands is Picture Organic, a B Corp certified skiwear brand with a firm focus on sustainable practice and fabrics, who have rejected the traditional way of making snow jackets which requires petroleum extraction, by ensuring that all of its product use 100 percent organic, recycled and bio-sourced materials.

Picture Organic Ski Wear

The 21st century is faced with many challenges. The fashion industry is one of the largest contributors industry pollution, as it uses masses amounts of energy and raw materials; 2020 fashion must be sustainable as more consumers are being conscious on their spendings ensuring that garments are eco-friendly. Future designers must consider materials and techniques used to create garments.

Most ski wear is created from petroleum extraction which involves large machinery to extract petroleum from the earths surface, most fabrics in fast fashion such as polyester and nylon are made from non- renewable fossil fuels. The textile industry is responsible for over 8% of worldwide carbon emissions. Companies such as Picture Organic are transparent with the process of producing a garment, and here are some of the steps they follow in order to be more eco friendly that students would also easily be able to do: Organic materials:

96% of cotton is organic

Recycled materials:

69% of polyester used to make technical apparel comes from recycled bottles.

Reusing materials:

The scraps left over from the machines are used as linings for jackets, sleeping bags and snow coats, each jacket lining is unique.

Animal based materials:

100% wool

They also offer a lifetime repair guarantee.

Jumper made from ribbed woollen material, perfect for winter as allows insulation and prevents heat from escaping. The ribbed material will allow elasticity,which will be Fully functional and allow movement.